Saltcorner
By Bob Goemans
By Bob Goemans
Hello Bob,
My interest in the marine aspect of the hobby has grown to the point that I am now ready to make the crossover from fresh to salt water. I intend to start with a fish/invert mix to start off with, then when I feel my skills are up to the challenge convert to a full reef system. The tank will be a 38" x 16" x 18" all glass. I plan to filter the aquarium using a plenum and 10kg of live rock built up in the rear corners of the aquarium so as to minimize the dead areas on the plenum. Behind these areas there will be a 600LPH pump feeding a spray bar up one structure to the top of the tank along the top then down to the bottom of the other structure with the intention of pushing detritus from building up behind the rockwork and to create some water surface disturbance. I will be using a Prism internal protein skimmer and an 8watt ultra violet filter. Lighting will be a 10,000K and blue moon type fluorescent tubes.
Parameters for my water, which will be made up using an API deionising unit, and will 'hopefully' be as follows. Specific gravity 1.022, temperature 78 degrees, ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate as near 0 as possible, phosphate 0, copper 0.
I plan to stock the aquarium with the following and in this order over a period of twelve months, quarantining each new fish for four weeks unless I observe any problems.
* 2 Nemateleotris decora (Purple Firefish) introduced into the aquarium at the same time
* 1 cleaner shrimp and 6 turbo snails
* Either Centropyge acanthops (Fireball Angelfish) or Centropyge bispinosus (Coral Beauty)
* 1 Neocirrhites armatus (Scarlet Hawkfish)
* 1 Gramma loreto (Royal Gramma)
Would these fish be compatible in this order, if not have you got any similar suggestions? Or indeed with any of my set up?
Lastly, with my stocking levels and an increase to four fluorescents with reflectors would it be OK to introduce some mushroom polyps?
Thank you for any advice you can share with me.
Anthony Nash West Yorkshire England
Hi Anthony,
Welcome to the marine side of the hobby. I must compliment you for taking the time to establish goals and asking someone with more experience to review your plan. You're now somewhat God-Like, as you're going to create a small world where the creatures of your choice are going to live, and their environment and health is totally in your hands. It should be done right the first time!
Creating a fish system and then changing it somewhere in the future to a full reef system is feasible if special care is taken right from the beginning. To do so requires the prevention of nutrients from accumulating in the early phase of the system and giving rise to unwanted or uncontrollable algae growths. In other words, a more natural biological system along with forethought when it comes to stocking levels and feeding will assure future expansion possibilities.
As for the spray bars, they are susceptible to a slow buildup of calcium carbonate and slime, and because of that, their efficiency diminishes with time. Unless the tubing is made in easy to remove sections and can be taken out for periodical cleaning, spray bars are usually no longer very affective after six months. The same is true for any hidden pump, as it will need servicing sooner or later. You might want to consider a more open live rock structure using branching rock that does not lean against the aquarium walls. Water flow in-between and around the rock can then be accomplished with a more easily removed powerhead located at some point behind the rock. Placing the powerheads/pumps on timers and having them alternate their on-off periods would be helpful in simulating a more natural tidal-like flow. In fact, the ability to externally 'magnetically' hold pumps located on the inside panels is now a boon to the hobby, as they can easily be removed/moved to different locations inside the tank helping to generate currents to areas needing them. So I would consider having one on either side instead of the spray bar, each controlled by a timer, and give them different on/off periods to mimic tidal currents.
A UV sterilizer may be helpful in the beginning, however, once suspension feeding corals are added it would be more beneficial to halt the use of anything that would kill free floating organisms that serve as coral foodstuffs. And, once invertebrates are added, specific gravity should be maintained at natural seawater levels, e.g., 1025 - 1.026.
Quarantining each new fish for four weeks is an excellent approach and one more aquarists should consider. Your selections of fish are those liking numerous ledges and hiding places/caves. Take that into consideration when aquascaping. More than one Purple Firefish might be a problem in a small tank, however, nothing ventured nothing gained. I would recommend Astraea snails instead of Turbo snails. The Turbo species need huge amounts of greenery to stay healthy. Often they become weak and start to fall off surfaces when they don't have an adequate food supply. When they die, often out of sight, they greatly add to the bulk water nutrient level. Astraea snails are much hardier! And mushroom corals are without a doubt the easiest of all corals to maintain, and do well in almost all aquaria right from the get go.
You don't say what the wattage of the lamps will be to start the system; nevertheless, about 2 -3 watts per gallon should be sufficient to maintain mushroom corals shortly. When added, boost specific gravity as mentioned above.
If you have any questions about plenum installation and/or its maintenance, contact me with those and I'll be happy answer them. Again, lets do it right the first time!
Good luck and hope this helps,
Bob Goemans
