Saltcorner
By Bob Goemans
By Bob Goemans
Good morning Bob!
I'm a new hobbyist but I am devouring books, articles and I already have four tanks,(55 gal fish only, 55 reef, 30 gal fish only) and the one with more problems: Is a 375 gal with a 80 gal sump, I have 120 LB live rock and 400 LB live sand, I set it up 2 1/2 months ago, the ammonia is 0, the Nitrate is .0 and the Nitrate is 5mg/l, calcium 420 mg/l, phosphate is .6 mg/l, the alkalinity is 1.8 meq/l or 90 mg/l the pH is 8.6 I think?? because the test kits from Hagen and Aquarium pharmaceuticals you can not tell with accuracy(color results never match the grid).
In the sump I have three divisions. The first a prefilter with bio balls, next to a 20 LB of Miracle Mud with Caulerpa growing under two 15 watts Aquasun, (two types of Caulerpa). Followed by another compartment with more bio balls. Then for the return line I am using a little giant 4-mdqx-sc. Inside the tank I have 4 Rio powerheads 2500. I keep the temperature between 78 - 80 F and I have not set any type of lighting, although in my daylight basement, it receives plenty light from outside and probably one hour of direct light from sun.
I have 2 velvet damsels and one domino damsel. When I checked the parameters the Nitrate level was almost 0 so I decided to introduce a Lion (volitans), and three days later I realize that he had a white spot on the side and was not eating at all. After two more days he was lying on one side and the scales and skin was peeling off, so I took it out and put it in a 10 gal hospital but it was too late. I read Treatment of Exotic Marine Fish Disease by Edward Kingsford, that could have been tuberculosis or a bacterial infection. I read also that if it was tuberculosis probably the whole tank is contaminated. So I decided to put a Yellow tang and three days later I could not resist and bought also a Big long nose butterflyfish. The tang was eating perfect, broccoli, lettuce and flakes, the butterfly never wanted to eat, and suddenly 1 1/2 week later die with no visible marks on the skin. I noticed he was breathing fast, now the tang that was doing fine, is only hiding and he is not eating, he started breathing fast but again with no visual skin problems and the three damsels are growing fast.
I am trying to have an ecosystem without a skimmer, I do not want to fill my tank with chemicals and I am not sure if I need to lower the pH (it has been consistent the actual level), I understand I have to raise the alkalinity and I started to use the reef builder(SeaChem) that I am using for my reef tank, with a dose of 2.5 tsp.. to raise 1 meq/l for every 50 gal, also I am adding reef plus at a rate of 15 ml for every 20 gal, and I am not sure if this is a lot???,, you probably already noticed the series of my mistakes, but I do not, so if you can please help me try to solve why the fish are not doing well I would appreciate.
I promise myself and my WIFE stop buying fish before you can help me and as you know it is very hard to restrain the feeling of buying another fish to see it in your tank.
I am sorry for the length of this e-mail but I try to give you as much information as I could.
Thank you very much for your time.
Filiberto Valero
Hi Filiberto,
Thanks for your interesting letter. Unfortunately I have been overwhelmed lately. Anyway, I presume the other three tanks are doing fine, and if so, the problems mentioned are only happening in the large tank. If so, lets first look at the current status, what system parameters needs to be improved, than at fish health.
Do yourself a favor and get some better test kits! For the price, those from Aquarium Systems will serve you well. Next, the pH should normally fall at night and rise during the daylight hours. Could be a better test kit will indicate that, but please recheck it. As for now, its not something to discuss until I'm sure of its parameters. If this is a fish-only system, alkalinity is not as important as it is in a reef system. What you now have, i.e., 1.8 meq/l is that in natural seawater, so that's not an important fact as of now. So trying to increase it with additives at this time is not needed. Phosphate would be a high if this was a reef tank, but its not. Yet, I would not allow it to become higher or you will be besieged with unwanted algae problems. You may want to consider some of the iron impregnated pads on the market as a way to control it. So, water quality problems that would be severe enough to cause fish health problems don't seem to exist.
Water circulation and oxygenation problems, however, is another story. Keep in mind submerged bioballs are good at the nitrification cycle, but don't replenish the oxygen used as would they if in a trickle filter. Nor do you have a protein skimmer, a tool that not only helps to reduce the nutrient level, e.g., nitrate and phosphate, it also oxygenates the water. Having four powerheads that produce about 700 gallons of flow per hour is helpful, but surface movement and a well oxygenated flow of water (coming from the skimmer) is an important consideration, one that I think you should consider.
As for fishes, most damselfishes are extremely bold and if first in the aquarium, think they own the whole place. They can easily cause enough stress to cause marine ich on most newcomers, especially more prone fishes such as the longnose butterfly. Unfortunately, what you describe sounds more like Tuberculosis. The effects of this malady usually single out one or two fish in an aquarium. Symptoms include loss of appetite, general listlessness, followed by hiding and rapid respiration. Exactly what you describe. Eyes may become clouded and popeye can develop sometimes. Additionally, fins may become ragged, abdomen sunken, and the fish may lie on its side.
Treatment for affected specimens can either proceed in the main tank or in a hospital tank. The hospital tank is a preferred path since it can be treated with two medications, rendering more of a possibility for recovery. If only the main system can be treated, 40 mg of isoniazid per gallon can be used as it will not effect the biological filter, however, all carbon and UV filtration should be temporarily suspended. If utilizing a hospital tank, 40 mg of isoniazid per gallon and 40 mg of streptomycin per gallon can be used. Completely change water every three days and re-medicate. If possible, feed medicated foods. Do not return fish until there is a complete recovery.
Caution, as fish tuberculosis (Mycobacteria marinum) can be transferred to humans when an aquarist places an open wound on their hand or arm in the same container holding the infected fish. A very possible result is that open lesions will develop into abscesses that won't heal. Antitubercular drugs isoniazid and streptomycin are needed to cure the problem, as penicillin is ineffective.
I hope this is helpful.
Bob
